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Big brown trout |
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On this page we present a
complete tying instruction so that you may come
well prepared to the big brown trout
and us
during the season of 2008.
Copyright (c) 2007 of text and
photographs: Mikael Båth |
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The Gothenburger

The Gothenburger is an all-round pattern for the river
Vindelälven.
As the name suggests this is the fly I tied as my own
standard fly for the Ammarnäs trout. It was the first fly to
be created in the Ammarnäs series and in its design it is
complete with all details and proportions that signify these
big brown trout flies.
This pattern is an excellent match to fish the Ammarnäs
trout when the water often is slightly humus coloured at the
upper parts of the river Vindelälven. If I had to choose
only one fly to fish Vindelälven it would without hesitation
be this pattern. The size is suitable for one handed rods
with lines classed #8 and two handed rods with lines classed
#6-7.
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Material in the order it is tied in
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Tying thread |
Black Danville’s 6/0 Flymaster Waxed Thread |
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Tube |
Frödin X-small, 23 mm long |
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Body |
Ice Dubbing 343, UV Shrimp Pink –
gently brushed |
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Body hackle |
The top part of a yellow
Whiting Bugger Hackle |
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Lower wing |
Yellow fox or temple dog |
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Middle wing |
Orange fox or temple dog |
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Flash |
Angel Hair AHH-144, Rusty Olive |
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Front hackle |
The lower part of a hot orange
coloured Whiting Bugger Hackle |
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Top wing |
Red-brown fox or temple dog |
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Sides |
Jungle cock |
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Hook holder |
Silicone tube, 13 mm |
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Head |
Spirit River Medium Cone, gold |
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Comment |
FThe fly in the pictures in
this instruction is tied with fox hair for the
lower- and middle wing. The top wing is made by
temple dog hair to make it look nicer and
increase the volume of the wing.
I fish flies of this size with
Lagartun Double Tube Fly Hook size #10, which
balances the fly perfectly.
If you want to fish with
bigger and heavier hooks you might have to tie
in a fine lead wire a couple of turns under the
front hackle.
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1. Start by cutting a tube 23 mm long and
place it in the vise. You press the tube slightly together
when you put it in the vise and a length of 22 mm of a fixed
tube is good. At the bottom of the picture below you see a
fixed tube pressed together.

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2. Attach the tying thread 5 mm from the
tube’s right end (if you tie using your right hand) and wrap
close turns over 3 mm of the tube. Wrap with wider turns to
a point 4 mm from the tube’s left end and wrap close turns
forward (to the right). Wrap the tying thread back and forth
a few times over the rest of the tube so that the material
will attach well later on. Now we have indicated the fly’s
size on the tube, left 4 mm of the tube unwrapped for the
silicone tube and prepared the foundation.

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3. Fold a yellow hackle and tie it in just
off the top of the tube with the stem pointing away from you
and the hackle fibres pointing to the rear. Secure the
hackle properly and trim off excess.

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4. Wrap the tying thread to a point 1 mm
in front of the hackle’s tying-in point. Wrap the body by
dubbing it with Ice Dubbing. The body should be 7 mm long.
Leave the tying thread just in front of where the body ends
as in the picture below.

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5. Wrap the body hackle by first making a
turn by the rear end of the dubbing. When the first and
straight turn is in place you start an even mounting over
the body with four turns, as you make sure that all fibres
end up pointing towards the rear end. Wrap an additional
turn just in front of the body, secure the hackle, cut and
tie down surplus. The whole rear body, including the hackle,
is now approximately 8 mm long.


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6. If the measures are correct tying
thread should now cover 4 mm of the tube, where we will
tie in the remaining parts of the fly. Start by tying in the
lower wing, 18-21 mm long, directly in front of the body
hackle. Secure the wing with 6-7 firm turns and trim off
excess.

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7. Continue with the middle wing, which
should be 30-35 mm long.

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8. In the middle four to six strands of
Angel Hair are tied in with a couple of turns. The strands
should now follow the middle wing nicely backwards. Fold the
remaining Angel Hair strands backwards and secure them. Cut
the strands so that they will stick out a bit further than
where the end of the top wing later will be. Even out the
foundation if it has become rugged and leave the tying
thread hanging in front of the middle wing.

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9. Fold the front hackle and secure it at
the point of the hackle where the fibres are as long as the
front fibres of the body hackle.

Move forward with the tying thread and
then follow with the front hackle with six or seven turns.
Not more than about a millimetre should now be left to the
bare tube. Secure the hackle and trim off excess. Wrap the
tying thread over the most forward turn of the front hackle
to press it slightly backwards. This will simultaneously
form a 2 mm long space to tie in the top wing and the sides
of the fly.

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10. Prepare the top wing and make sure
that there is not too much excess wool by the wing’s root.
It is important that the top wing does not build up too high
above the tube, since the cone might then not cover all the
materials properly. Measure the length of the top wing,
45-50 mm. Tie it in pointing forward as in the picture, with
five to six firm turns and leave the tying thread by the
rear tie-in point.

Fold the wing backwards and secure it in
its position. The top wing should now smoothly follow the
fly straight over the other two wings. Fixate the wing
properly with yet a few turns of tying thread. Possibly
adjust the Angel Hair strands finely so that they will fit
the rest of the wing’s proportions.

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11. Now tie in the sides of jungle cock.
It is easiest to start with the feather towards you. You tie
it in with three or four turns so that it aligns with the
middle wing. Then tie in the further side. Trim off jungle
cock excess and finish off with some firm whip finish knots.

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12. Remove the fly from the vise and
attach the silicone tube, which will work as a hook holder.
The tube should cover the fly’s tube all the way to the most
rear turn of the body hackle.

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13. Slide the cone over the tube and press
it down over the fly’s head. Cut the tube a millimetre in
front of the cone and melt the tube with a lighter to fixate
the cone. If you want to be assured that the cone is tightly
attached to the fly, you may put some varnish or glue on the
head of the fly before sliding on the cone. In the picture
you can see how the tube has been cut to a proper length to
melt the cone onto the fly.

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14. To finish off we use a dubbing needle
and open up the tube’s front hole so that we later on may
insert the leader through the fly.

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